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Nigiri Sushi |
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Nigirizushi
is possibly the most artful branch of Japanese
cuisine, and it is certainly the supreme product
of the sushi tradition. Nigiri means "pressed
in the hand," and the chef forms a small
oval of sushi rice in one hand, then presses
a choice strip of fish or shellfish on top.
Fish roe is also served as nigirizushi, on a
pad of rice wrapped with a band of seaweed deep
enough to contain the rice and hold the roe
on top. This style of nigirizushi is caredgunkan,
which means "boat," and is also used
to serve tiny shellfish and other small ingredients
that might otherwise go their own way.
Most varieties of nigirizushi contain a hint
of pungent wasabi horseradish, and are meant
to be dipped in soy sauce. Some seafood in nigirizushi
is cooked, but these are exceptions. Fresh raw
fish, shellfish, and roe are the prime ingredients
in nigirizushi.
The splendid array of shellfish used for nigirizushi
can be almost bewildering to most Americans,
who may have little more than a passing familiarity
with clam chowder and shrimp cocktail. Most
of the menu items at sushi bars are exotic varieties
imported from Japan, but local shellfish will
turn up occasionally, as well as rare delicacies
not on the menu. With shellfish in particular,
you will do well to explore the selection with
the chef.
Several kinds of fish roe are served in sushi
bars, most of them processed and imported from
Japan. A few are available fresh on occasion
and are gently marinated in sake and soy sauce,
giving them a less salty flavor than the processed
kinds. The tingling flavors and intriguing textures
of roe are only surpassed by their beauty; the
gemlike reds, oranges, and golds seem to glow
in the sushi case.
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Maki Sushi |
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Makizushi
means "rolled sushi" and it is thin strips
of fish and vegetables rolled in sushi rice and crisp
sheets of seaweed, and then sliced into bite-sized
rounds. The seaweed is called nori, and another name
for makizushi is norimaki. Although it doesn't occupy
the same exalted position as nigirizushi in Japanese
cuisine, it is extremely popular and available in
sushi bars everywhere.
Makizushi is a particular favorite among sushi neophytes;
in fact, it is most people's introduction to sushi,
and it is easy for a beginner to like. The hint of
raw tuna in a slice of makizushi is a good way to
dispel the notion that uncooked fish is creepy.
At first, the thought of nibbling on makizushi's seaweed
wrapper may give you pause, but eating nori is only
unnerving if you've tried it. It combines the light,
seabreeze taste of seaweed with a crackly texture,
and its crisp saltiness complements the soft sweetness
of sushi rice.
Nori is made from several species of Porphyra seaweed
that are washed and spread thin to dry in much the
same way that wood pulp is made into paper. Before
it is used, nori is toasted to enhance its flavor
and texture and turn it a brilliant green.
Makizushi comes in two sizes at the sushi bar. Hosomaki,
which means "slender roll," is the most
familiar. The chef rolls it with a small, flexible
bamboo mat. It is about an inch in diameter and contains
one or two ingredients plus rice. Hosomaki makes six
bite-sized rounds.
You may also ask for temaki, "hand roll,"
which is smaller, loosely rolled by hand and given
to you like an ice cream cone to be eaten in two or
three bites."
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